I have 5 different profiles all the same size, 3", which are all cut with 2 passes through the moulder.Jeff. Making a mortise and tenon miter cabinet door will require having mortise machine. But your suggestion of using the panel as joint-reinforcement is a great one.And so if we decide on maple, the panels will be flat, and made with maple ply. It also contains affiliate links. google_ad_height = 60; It is MDF or ply (with veneer) and it is actually the panel that is holding the frame together, not vice versa. To do this, I drill a hole using my Kreg Concealed Hinge Jig. Heres a classic way to put together a strong, good-looking door without making any unsightly holes. Just make sure you follow the tips on the MLCS videos in addition to making the last several passes at 1/16th inch or less intervals. To figure out the panels length, assemble three sides of your door. Place this piece on your saw, then adjust the saws fence so that the blade is positioned slightly off the line. Maybe they could send me a set of each for a trial run as the one I cut with now cuts every wood I put threw it clean as a whistle. Used the 8781/8788 to redo my master bathroom cabinet doors and drawers. Draw the four sides of a cabinet makers triangle to identify which part goes where. 2.
To even up the ends of the door, cut 1/16 inch from each end using the table saw. Once you get the blade set at the correct height, saw tenons on the ends of both rails. I take the time, believe it or not, to perfect the miters with my shooting board and #9 plane. Rabbeting a shelf; Strength vs. appearance, Editor's Letter: A new tool with every project. Clamp the door as shown in the photo below. My other question has to do with cracks developing along the joint. No, you may NOT ask how I know that. If you do this, I would caution you to make your carcasses and faceframes before you place an order. Was going to try it but there's not enough meat unless you add your fingers to the equation to be able to satisfy the use of the biscuits.
So I went with poplar for the door frames and birch plywood for the panels. ), she didnt just want a plain shaker style door. Make sense? My response to the OP was that many (most?) I would recommend these bits to everyone. It is too late now but next time I would try lapped miter joints for the doors. The excellent video below is entertaining and well produced. As you can see, it's worth the effort. Check the grooves depth and adjust your blade up or down if necessary.
If you don't have a satisfactory way to do that, plan doors without solid panels. doors on existing cabinets, you will probably want to match the wood species For cabinets with face frames, if doing inset doors, subtract from both the height and width of your frame opening to get your door size. If I had the extra money I'd buy all of the sets just to have and enjoy creating saw dust but I don't right now and I hope that they come up with some matching sets to complement the other sets of door profiles for the drawer profiles. Youll find this material at most home centers and lumberyards. So for painted mitered doors, you think splines will ensure no cracks? Also, leave the panels 1/4" below the surface of the frames with a 1/4" cove - it will look so much better. The MLCS Mitered Door Frame Bit allows you to create dramatic decorative trim. Place one of the rails or stiles next to the blade, then adjust the blades height to cut just a bit lower than the groove (about 1/16 inch). Then I install the type of hinges Im using (inset, partial overlay, full overlay), and follow manufacturers instructions (or my instructions) for attaching those hinges to the cabinet. Precut your stiles and rails an extra 1 inch long so theyre easier to handle. I measured and cut based on the long sides and made sure the short sides had the dadoes and the round over edge. Slide the rail into place, again making sure its even with the end of the stile. //-->. Dowelling is good but only if you've got a setup that will make perfectly aligned holes. Trim both ends of the test pieces now as well. Basically, I cut the pieces to the size my door needed to His main focus was on milling and assembling the frame pieces. Shaker cabinet doors have a timeless look that works in both traditional and modern kitchens. These are hand-held power tools that can be purchased from any major hardware supply store. Cut about 1/4 inch off the parts right end to square it up. When designing a job, all of these sizes need to be considered. We have created these special content collections organized to give you a deep dive into a range of topics that matter. Cut the grooves that receive the plywood panels and tenon tongues along the inside edges of all the pieces. In the movie he starts with a two and an eight wide piece because he will be adding cock bead molding on the outside of the door to make it the correct size after he attaches screws through the rails. Once everything was together, I used some pipe clamps to clamp it in place and make sure it was nice and square and my corners lined up well. Another option might be to buy your doors and drawer fronts from a production shop. It was the perfect height to be able to stand securely to install the doors and the cabinet pulls, but the podium also provided a great place to place my tools, drill bits, screws, etc. UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month. Mitered frames with a 1" panel would certainly look funny.Jeff, scope out the price difference from the same size conventional stile/rail door and the mitred door.
Methinks you'll find a 25% per square inch upcharge on the mitred stuff.Don't ask me why, other than they can use profiles over the whole stile rail(aditional costs in shaping/sanding??). yes, it's always good to give the client an option to spend more. For this particular situation, I installed the doors on the cabinets in my shop to ensure a good fit, transported them to my sisters garage, removed the doors from the hinges, painted, installed the cabinets, then re-attached the doors. UNLIMITED membership - Get access to it all. And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone; Complete DIY projects like a pro! - lol), The cherry door I showed in the picture is not a built up profile. Apply glue to both sides of the groove in one stile and one rail. I've had some issues with this, even with dowelled joints (not miters). (I have a post here all about concealed hinges and how to install them.) Sign up for our newsletter! To figure the length of the rails, measure the total width of two stiles placed side by side. }, --10 Must Have Tools for Furniture and Cabinet Building. Because my sister likes to make things difficult (love you, Sissy! The detailed profile is cut on stock pieces by using a router set up in a table. The pieces are then put together with glue and by screwing them together. I installed my dado blade into my table saw and set it up to cut dado, be from the rip fence, and cut high. If its not, your cabinet door wont be flat or straight either, and it certainly wont close right! Part 1. Assemble the doors stiles and rails, with the best side facing up. Right. Get instant access to over 100 digital plans available only to UNLIMITED members. This site uses cookies to provide you with a better experience. She wanted the inside edge to have this little somethin somethin. "My opinions may have changed, but not the fact that I'm right". It can be a painstaking process, however. This is done in order to allow room for the center panel to miss the wood biscuits. July 9, 2016 I'm Shara, the designer, maker, and videographer behind Woodshop Diaries. I wiped any excess glue away so it will be easier to sand later. Get complete site access to video workshops, digital plans library, online archive, and more, plus the print magazine. I was concerned that chiseling out the waste on a glued up miter joint would damage the joint (especially as difficult as red oak is to chisel), but while cutting the sides of the slot with my back saw, I realized I could hog out most of the waste by making several additional relief cuts, then running a coping saw across the bottom! This way you do not have to waste stock. JavaScript is disabled. >>"If you examine them closely you'll see that on 99% of the commercially made mitered doors the panel is not solid wood"Excellent point -- thank you.We have not yet decided if we want our "new" cabinets to be maple, or if they are to be painted. You should give yourself at least 1/2 to 1" full inch of extra board but the wider the better that way when you route out the profiles the bearing rides along the wood and the rest of the wood stock rides perfectly flat. The biscuit cutter works awesome for the door profile but not so much for the drawer profile. The finished product was excellent. Here's some pics of what I'm talking about. I wont be laughing at the lies when Im gone, And I cant question how or when or why when Im gone; I cant live proud enough to die when Im gone, So I guess Ill have to do it while Im here. The extra decorative edge along the middle really makes them look professional. For this situation, I was building my sister brand new cabinets. She didnt want a standard shaker style door with a flat, square frame and inside panel.like this from my old laundry room cabinets. Thats it for the first method. And if you are making a double door cabinet (like one where you have two doors that meet in the middle), measure just like above, then subtract from the width (to give you an gap between the doors), then divide that number by two to get the width for your each of the two separate doors. Just make sure you follow the tips on the MLCS videos in addition to making the last several passes at 1/16th inch or less intervals. January 11, 2011 For cabinets with face frames, if doing partial overlay, add 2 times whatever you want your overlay to be to the height and width of your inside opening (and be sure get hinges to match your overlay.) I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone, Made this entire kitchen from scratch., I used these router bits to remake my master bathroom cabinets - eighteen door and drawer fronts. Use the miter gauge that came with your table saw. A search for "cabinet doors" should turn up someone in your area. google_ad_client = "pub-0773501472177423"; 3) I made a special jig to go along with my 45 degree sliding sled to ensure exact frame lengths - I needed 18 drawers/doors to make. }, 10 Must Have Tools for Furniture and Cabinet Building, 13 Poplar Boards (recommended for paint OR wood species of your choice), plywood (birch recommended for paint projects OR match 13 wood species). They accented the drawer/door fronts making the bathroom exceptional. (Part 3), Our Holiday Special Items List, Part 2 (Limited Time! Without it, the miter joint simply isn't strong enough to withstand the torture that a cabinet door is subjected to.Good luck, and happy Thanksgiving!Jeff. I had planned to make mitered corners on the doors, since I would like to make a profile that I don't think will work for a traditional door. Check out our shop to browse printable PDF building plans!
Its also got a 300 lb load capacity, but its fiberglass, so its pretty light weight. Dribble glue in the grooves of all four sides of the frame. I attributed it to flex as they were 12x48 doors (and glass at that). Make overlapping cuts on one end of the test piece. But, seriously. The purpose of my post was not to show a beautiful miter. I laid my frame out on my workbench and used a square to mark lines along the diagonals in the corners. The "KEY" thing that must be done with this set and any set for what I can see is this. Measure the distance between the tenons to determine the panels length. I enjoy using my router with this set though making a couple mods to it which was no bit deal at all I have fun doing this door profile. (Part 4), Limited Time, Woodworking Supplies Holiday Sale! Those are the stars of the show. Place the part on the left side of the fence. /* 468x60, created 12/8/08 fix my cab 2nd */ I would use larger drawer fronts, maybe 9" to 10" high, when doing this. Thank you, Captain Obvious. I believe they look much better than cope and stick joints, and I sell them as an upgrade to my customers. I chose these options because they are easy to work with and paint really well. The # 8781 with the #8778 combo I got with. I built my cabinet doors with simple frames and floating panels (as in the panels float inside the frame). You could try a Mitered bridle joint, lots of long grain. Put the miter gauge back on the saw and clamp a block 1/4-inch away from the slot in the saws fence. Its also helpful to label each frame piece so you know how they go back together . This way you do not have to waste stock. Narrower boards ripped from wider ones have a good chance of warping, a problem you wont be able to fix. Check out my post here about to build frameless cabinets. We are no longer supporting IE (Internet Explorer) as we strive to provide site experiences for browsers that support new web standards and security practices. Use a miter gauge to steady the wood when you cut it.
So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. Commenting has been disabled. This should allow about of room for the panel to move within the frame (for wood movement and some wiggle room when you glue it up). You should give yourself at least 1/2 to 1" full inch of extra board but the wider the better that way when you route out the profiles the bearing rides along the wood and the rest of the wood stock rides perfectly flat. Start by drawing a center line on the end of one of your test pieces. You might use biscuits in the joints or dowel it. This helped tremendously. A forum community dedicated to professional woodworkers and enthusiasts. If you are using true 1x3s (which are 2 wide), your panels should be about 4 narrower and 4 shorter than your door frame pieces. It was to let you know that if you use a spline to reinforce the miters, you can use a floating raised panel of solid wood without compromising the strength of the door. October 11, 2019 by Shara, Woodshop Diaries, Looking to make your own DIY cabinet doors? Website I enjoy using my router with this set though making a couple mods to it which was no bit deal at all I have fun doing this door profile. They have to be near perfect, and I also strengthen them with a spline. He also points out that it is best to drill a pilot hole and use wax on the screws. I used these router bits to remake my master bathroom cabinets - eighteen door and drawer fronts. Be picky when you choose your wood. A 2 1/4" version of the same profile works just fine with drawer fronts. The author of the video suggest that before fastening the parts together with screws, the wood frame should be clamped and the glue should be allowed to thoroughly dry. So I used my trim router and a round over bit to cut a nice round over edge on the same side of the board as the dado. Please be respectful and don't steal this content. The stock size of the frames are usually in the neighborhood of three quarters of an inch (3/4) thick and two and a half (1/2) wide. Once all the dadoes were cut (there were 28 boards for all my sisters cabinet doorsTWENTY EIGHT), I began routing the decorative edge. First of all, thank you for your earlier replies in this thread (in which I was wondering about mitered door frames).In one of your replies, you mentioned that you use 3" wide stiles and rails for the cabinet doors. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Making Shaker Style Kitchen Cabinet Doors, Making or Fabricating Glass Cabinet Doors, Cutting a Mortise and Tenon Joint Video Tutorials, Making A Cabinet Drawer Using A Biscuit Joiner, How To Work With Formica Plastic Laminate, Cut the stock hardwood rips at two and a half inches (2-1/2) by three quarters (3/4), Route the detailed inside and outside edges on the stock, Cut the tenon with a dado blade on the table saw.