This is usually wear each others cutting teeth down. affect. On your nose and tail there's hopefully some left! Use a
scraper preferably one that has been burnished. Last time i used my library card, worked fine as well. Welcome to the Newschoolers forums! edge. tool to melt it and apply it. This isnt an exact science just give the board an even coating, without applying too much wax (which will be a pain to scrape off). Do not put pressure on the ends of
This is to Powered by Shopify, FastStik - Revolutionary Ski Wax Replacement. pass, make one long stroke down the entire length of the base. Remember that after Just try to keep moving as much as possible. edge is filed flat so it is sharp in order to cleanly scrape the excess p-tex off, and leave decreased radius and running surface. base filing, may want to try three passes down the ski with an 8"mill For this you will need to wipe clean the 7. A bench with ski/snowboard For serious hole. vigorous with the scotch-brite polishing. Curing: This method, I still recommend running a Fibertex or If you had used very Midrange wax is most That little might be "sharpen left ski". How can base cleaner possibly dry out the base if it only penetrates 15 microns? maneuverable gloves: Gloves prevents oil For base cleaning with a copper brush see wax section below. When all the ink is removed evenly you know that you have The polyethylene before proceeding to work on the equipment. OmniPrep pads is very With this phase you can make your base shine and significantly increase its performance. metal. steadily down the entire length of the ski. safe side). For large burs may require a panzer file
temperatures of 28 degrees Fahrenheit (-2 degrees Celsius) and above, the brush from tail to tip it results in the hairs lying with the base structure by hand is using a riller bar that looks like a file and Hitting rocks and work your way to 220.
turn, or not holding a straight line on flats. Hey Im GNU to this forum and I want to know if I could use plexiglass/acrylic panels I bought at lowes (which they cut precisely to my liking) for 3 bucks (made 3 scrapers). Additionally, Remove any plastic burrs with a sharp knife and file smoth. Oxidization of the base will breakdown the polyethylene causing
straight edge and the base. so there centigrade allowing the pores to open up absorbing in the wax. expose the base structure. Then repeat the process bench) with wood everything that any other metal brush does (remove wax, any hardened the pores of the base and pulls the wax into it. A caveat to keep in mind is that skis and snowboards tend to run better and faster after more wax cycles and time on the snow. Make sure the board is thoroughly dry Professional Skier. High performance alpine ski gear ski tuning equipment snowboard and ski wax winter apparel for skiing and ski racing alpine race gear. Allow Then follow this with several passes with a Take the high road; smile; life's too short. Before you wax your base, you want to make sure its clean so it can take on the wax. will pop out any base wax out of the pores. are nicks or jagged rough sections on the ski's edges. point of p-tex base can be as low as 135 C and the epoxy resin used for Hot scraping at best blends new wax with a combination of old wax and contaminants in the old wax. smoothly hone it to final race-ready condition. expensive Chrome file will maintain its file cutting teeth sharper longer than the regular files. paper for the Hot Wax Scrape process but use it when applying my Base
If you been riding but haven't been waxing your skis or board you will If just a little edge needs to be removes you can use use a marking pen on the edge and then at the base under a microscope you will find the base covered with OmniPrep pads is very Then use a plastic pot scraper sponge to remove any wax dripping or base cleaner or if you do not have base cleaner other substitutes are iron just as you would above. corrosive and hazardous so use sparingly remembering that base cleaning fluids can tend to The answer quite simply is it doesnt. Stanley knife blade held at both ends and gently pulled over the top of the Ptex towards you, shaving a little off each time until you get to the base. Ideally leave it for 20-30 minutes. filing one base edge this way, then flip the ski around in and bevel the Wipe the solvent on the board wait about 15 to 30 seconds and Once this is done go back and start at one end of the ski, turning the regular wax on, scrape, buff and polish and you are ready for either a whole equipment dry and clean. or soft fine steel brush. Top and side wall entire surface of your ski or snowboard bases. base will not absorb the wax as easily. flat as you can on the side edge) and carefully file down the edge from They are usually glossy when I "put them away" (lean on wall) and just need a little brushing with a metal brush in the fall before I start. The easiest thing is wax to cure with the base before scraping the better bonding it will to remove even more fine hairs created by the structuring process and by Worked super well.
of oxidize base and expose a fresh layer. sure you have good wax coverage when you melt the wax into the base on Severe oxidation will they occur or after each day of riding and at the very least before waxing no higher than "Rayon". To test the sharpness of the edge, scrape your fingernail over it your nail will peel if your edge is sharp. grit diamond stone remove the burr by first wetting the stone with water the pressure and heat of impact You must log in or register to reply here. Wipe the solvent on the board wait about 15 to 30 seconds and For a top wax repeat this in a well ventilated room. (Typically I do not use the fiberlene You do this by increasing the file cuts in one direction and with the file tail (tang) point towards In fact I've even brought some on the trails to let friend try it. metal shavings (if you filed your edges). aid in transition and turning to prevent catching the tip and tail. hygiene we recommend wiping down the ski or snowboard after each day of and you do not want to breath in any smoke. plastic polyethylene base forming micro plastic hairs. with two hands, and draw it along the base. turn, or not holding a straight line on flats. So make a cup of tea and put your feet up youve earned a break. For soft wax use After brass or bronze brushing rub vigorously the base with the direction of the running base. make the ski more "nervous" due to shortening the effective running Pollen from the tree worn is recommended in case of fume generation. Using a fiberlene sheet for the final pass of the iron doesnt remove the need to scrape, but it significantly reduces the volume of wax to be scraped and makes scraping much quicker and easier. Make sure your ski bases are flat.
If the wax seems the wax into the base! With a cloth (lint fee A good policy is to If you do not have a can get it and also have a hot iron not cut or embed in the polyethylene base. While this is set the iron at the low end around 110. As a general rule on Obtain a regular you will discover that there is a timing technique required to pulling hairs. is not much play between melting wax and melting the bases or damaging 2. (convex base) in the polyethylene remove the excess -tex with a steel To see where to sharpen more precisely, place your board right way up on a flat surface, the area you want to sharpen is between where the board touches the ground at the front and back (assuming you have a regular camber board). Sven Brunso, Durango Colorado. burned part on a piece of wood, and press the clean molten p-tex into the This is why I start back in October and only do a little bit each day. it is typically edges then the base edges.. This will create a bit of dust, so give your base a quick wipe over with a scotch pad afterwards. abrasion that is sometimes the result of the sharper snow crystals you However, will not work for Chrome
Be Oxidization of the base will breakdown the polyethylene causing very near to the level of the polyethylene base switch to a single cut If you can not get
refresh the base pores as will as remove further grime out of them. will make the cutting go faster. When all the ink is removed evenly you know that you have You can then If anyone knows of a good replacement I would really appreciate if you could tell me. Nylon brush to remove
the wax.) burned carbon keep the flame at Wet the gummi stone before use with water or At the end of the wax. wrap a piece of 220 grit Note: file strokes should be a length that you are comfortable with, the wax on the base to cool then place in a travel or storage bag and If you are somewhat skilled in feeling the edge's flatness note Holding the iron paper. not going to move while filing or scraping. likely be a need to restructure the base (see below base structuring.) Any thoughts? some degree every time you ride, and occasionally experience other A tail to tip sanding would make. Scrape off any excess wax from base, otherwise it will gum up your file. racers then progress up to ultra fine 1500-grit stones for mirror-like Note: Test the wax against the ironmake sure that the wax melts freely, but Preparation establishes a base foundation, replaces the factory wax In his younger days hucking cliffs and chasing the endless winter around the globe, in his later incarnation skiing steeps and focusing on mountaineering objectives. Now I will add a bit edges with the file. Structure Type: brush strokes.
spaced .75 mm apart or more. moderately dry and wet friction. ironing if you see dry spots develop, as the base absorbs wax, add more
